I’ll have to do a backdated post on Dubrovnik’s undeniable charm, but first. The drive to Kotor, Montenegro. It started with one of the very few tense moments I’ve had while driving. Aboard the short, tall bus (the kind that seem inherently unstable), I looked down at the beautiful blue of the Adriatic, with nothing but a guardrail that didn’t even begin to reach the bottom of my feet and 300-odd meters of sheer cliff separating us. Incredible view, but the rocking, brake-burning pace that the driver set was not particularly confidence inspiring. For the first time in my life, I wished I knew more engineering physics, so I could calculate more precisely when the brakes would fail, and how far we’d sail over the edge, and other related details. Sadly, this didn’t last, and the drive morphed into a mostly pretty cruise beside fertile valleys and adorable little terracotta roofed villages at the feet of small, grey mountains, it became something else entirely when we reached the bay. Though I’ve also heard it referred to as a Gulf, which seems much more appropriate. It took a solid hour to wend our way around the nooks and crannies of the water, and Kotor is not that close to the far side. But what an hour. Continue reading →

First impressions of Sarajevo are most strongly of modernity. The old city, thoroughly reconstructed, is a pleasant collection of cafes, bars, and clothing shops, populated at every hour of every day by swathes of people. Although there isn’t much that survived the war, the reconstruction is tasteful and faithful, and the Ottoman quarter feels absolutely Turkish, from the whitewashed wooden beam houses to the stray cats, who predominate over the typical dogs only in this part of town. The mix of Orthodox churches, Austro-Hungarian row houses, and Turkish style mosques and market buildings reminds me of Bulgaria, though in a somehow more muted way. If anything, religion seems stronger here, and we’ve seen the mosque full at noon prayer, while minutes later a large group of nuns in habits wandered down the street. Continue reading →

When Jamie informed me that there wasn’t much to eat in Serbia apart from the street food staples of burgers and pancakes (more like crepes), I knew I was in for a good week. And Belgrade has come through in spades. Continue reading →

Sibiu was followed by Brasov, the southern point of the triangle of cities that border Transylvania. Another lovely town, made more special by chance meetings with two marvelous folks who’ve also greatly enhanced (and extended) my last few days in Bucharest. But I’m once again jumping ahead. Continue reading →

Took the slow train from Sibiu (more on that soon) to Brasov today (now two days ago). I assume it’s the same track as the fast train, only with more stops, but it’s still well worth the extra hour or two. It stops Everywhere. Continue reading →