Coming to you from the achingly slow connection at a fancy pants Italian cafe in the rather incredibly preserved medieval town of Lucca. Not sure where I left off, so, from Athens we took a bus across the country, and, after spending a hateful couple of hours in the pouring rain following uncertain directions, outdated guidebook advice, and nonexistent signs to a series of ferry terminals, managed to board the 30-something hour ferry towards Venice. This ride passed surprisingly quickly, and left us under clearing skies in Venice’s small port. After riding the much-signed People Mover tram for approximately 40 seconds towards town, we hopped off and navigated to our hostel. The rest of the day was spent wandering Venice’s unreasonably attractive alleys and by-ways, taking far too many photos. Highlights included all of it, though the Piazza San Marco can’t help but overwhelm.

But that’s all ancient history – the recent past and future is entirely occupied by our occupation of a wonderful old house perched atop a ridge above and between a triangle of fantastically quaint little Tuscan villages, backgrounded in all directions by snow-capped mountains. This house, owned by Kate’s grandparents, appears to be ours until we get bored, and stocked as it is with books of hikes and sights and things to do in the area, this date is rapidly receding into the future. We’ve just pushed back our leaving date from Thursday to Tuesday, to give us time to see a fantastic sounding cave, and lounge in front of the fire a bit more.

Already we’ve wandered the steep and quiet streets of old Barga, topped by a beautiful cathedral, hiked up to Tiglio Alto, the clutch of houses and small churches that overlooks the village from the opposite side as the house, and which perches, from our vantage point, so picturesquely in front of a lovely mountain. Today’s adventure was Lucca, much larger but with a charm all its own, all cobble and magnificent churches, and gently curving streets lined by towering brick houses.

Must run, as there’s more wine to buy and dinner to cook, as well as a little yardwork to do to earn our keep. The house’s one failing is its total lack of telecommunication equipment, so further updates are on hold until we get to Florence. Between now and then, there’s much lazing in the sun feasting on salami and beer, and huddling by the fire eating something from one of the many fine cookbooks.