Ever Eastward

There are definite plusses and minuses to traveling in low season, and eventually the scales may shift, but for now I’m loving it. Today entailed a lazy breakfast in Kas, a long van/busride along the coast (sitting shotgun, because some Turkish dude gestured at me to do so.. meant great views (+). Also, no need to book anything in advance, apparently these busses fill up fast in summer (+)), and being deposited at a gravel road which I was assured led to Olympos, despite it differing significantly from Trusty Guidebook’s description. After asking for and loosely interpreting directions from a helpful Turkish woman, I figured I’d probably been set down on a little shortcut, and headed down the road. The clever busdriver had cut about 4 km off my 12 km trip to town from the highway, the disadvantage being that public transit was unlikely anywhere but the top of the road (-). The rain (-) was just starting, so I walked for about a kilometer. A dog barked at me, and when a man leaned out of what was signed as a restaurant to shush him, my ‘hello’ was greeted with an offer of tea. It was past lunch, so I headed in and asked if pancakes were an option (Turkish pancakes are sort of like big tortillas, and are for lunch). I sat with the family in their tiny restaurant while the mom rolled out dough and the daughter chopped, drinking tea and making abortive attempts at conversation (+) while the rain intensified. Eventually, full and happy, I decided that the rain was not going to let up, I headed back out. Another kilometer onward, two hung Turks holidaying in Olympos stopped for my thumb, and I had a ride to my pansion (and hiking buddies for the walk to Chimeara, the eternal flame, tonight). This place is lovely. I’m settled into a bungalow, which is basically a very fancy shack, real wood walls and floor, bathroom, big bed, heater, and just had a delicious and hearty dinner. It’s been pouring since I arrived, but I’m happy enough to sit under my heater trying to learn some more Turkish. Tomorrow will hopefully be beach weather, but considering I’m paying about $16 for my own bungalow, including breakfast and supper, I think I’ll just wait out the weather. It’s peaceful and pretty here, and while fellow travelers are rare (-), my Turkish ride told me of a relatively hoppin’ pansion just down the street, so when I get bored of luxuriating I’ll swing by there.