The ride to Frankfurt from Cologne was a simply stunning cruise the Rhine valley, which I would shortly learn was one of Germany’s premier tourist spots. Filled with vineyards on steep valley hills, the vines yellow or orange with the season, swathes of fall forest, and sprinkled with castles and other ancient things, I was entirely taken with the scene. Frankfurt would have been hard pressed to compete with such a lovely fantasy, but it sadly didn’t even really get a chance. I spent my first three days rather under the weather, and mostly stayed holed up at a kind family friend’s. I managed the old core and some Main wanderings, which was all lovely, but didn’t see much more than that.

The highlight of the last few days was returning (by train) to the Rhine valley to spend a day wandering about the hills and towns, getting some dirt on my boots. It was an excellent way to spend the day, even if I was semi-constantly blowing my nose. Clambering on ancient things, strolling alone through miles of perfectly  fall-coloured forest, and being among those crazily steep vineyards I’d briefly glimpsed was a happy break from the urbania of the trip so far.

Then it was off to Vienna via train, on which more to come soon.