The ride to Frankfurt from Cologne was a simply stunning cruise the Rhine valley, which I would shortly learn was one of Germany’s premier tourist spots. Filled with vineyards on steep valley hills, the vines yellow or orange with the season, swathes of fall forest, and sprinkled with castles and other ancient things, I was entirely taken with the scene. Frankfurt would have been hard pressed to compete with such a lovely fantasy, but it sadly didn’t even really get a chance. I spent my first three days rather under the weather, and mostly stayed holed up at a kind family friend’s. I managed the old core and some Main wanderings, which was all lovely, but didn’t see much more than that. Continue reading →

Well I’ve managed to start off on quite a low note, but, like eating an undercooked rat first thing in the morning, perhaps this only sets me up for a steady emotional ascent throughout Germany. In a sleep-soaked grog, I mistook my passport for my precious, lovely, treasured ebook reader when disembarking my flight to Dusseldorf, and promptly left it on the plane. The reader, that is. Lost and found was spectacularly unhelpful, despite detailed and prompt instructions. I should have made more of a scene, but I was quite a bit (perhaps inordinately) in shock. Anyway, after several emails and phone calls, I don’t think it’s coming back to me, so I’m off to spend far too many Euro replacing it. The beer here is ludicrously cheap, and food is a delicious bargain, but they pay for it when it comes to consumer durables. Better it than the passport, I suppose, though I’m still kicking myself days later.

After that, things have indeed improved quite a bit. I’m camped out with some generous German couchhosts, and have looked at the outside and inside of more old churches than you can shake a stick at. The Dom is self-evidently magnificent, covered with extraordinary details. The interior is the definition of grand, all soaring arches and marble.

Continue reading →

And just like that, it’s time to leave England in a puff of contrail. Well, almost just like that. After a surprisingly restful night on a series of café chairs and later a floor in Stanstead airport (poor planning, but such is the price of making all decisions last minute) and several hours on various forms of transit. Just like that.

Continue reading →

I am pleased to confirm that I have packed light enough to allow me to haul all of my things up and down a rather large hill without any discomfort, though much exhaustion. This particular hill was found in Bath, one of its seven surrounding hills. The view from the top was well worth it, even in the misty rain.

Continue reading →